These are simple and quick things you can do that will keep the ramp going far longer than most others. Sealing the Ramp Sealing and gluing the ramps in all the right places will make the difference. To do this you need to protect them with paint or water seal, give them proper slope, drainage and more. My skateboard ramp plans will make your ramps last outdoors. To prevent wear and water damage I like to use a few final touches to make the ramps last way longer. Masonite is available everywhere and work great for skateboarding. Skatelite is an expensive material that last well against skateboarding. Picking the skating surfaces Depending on your budget there are many options for the surface of your ramp. Go here for in depth description and then come back to this page after. Types of coping What is coping? Look here for the lowdown and comments on personal preference. Screw blocks in underneath the main horizontal beams. If you feel the need to beef up the structure then there are a few options. The forces created from skateboarding are not that huge. It turned out the skateboard ramps I made were well equipped to handle to abuse of any skateboarder. I did a structural analysis once in college. I have not seen structural problems on ramps that I build, even after 5 years of use. Secondary support and bracing made by other parts of the ramp add more stability. Then covered with thin plywood that will take the shape of the ramp in a few different layers.Ĭonnections Connections are how you attach the different parts of the ramp together. Braced every 4' or so with another plywood sheet. 2x4 or similar members spanning from one template to the other. The basic structure The basic structure of a good skateboard ramp plan will be: Plywood templates of the shape of the ramp on each end.
One that can be disassembled and moved without destroying the area.
#Free mini ramp blueprints install#
Install a few of these in the right spots and you will have a solid ramp. Use compacted structural sand with precast concrete piers and pressure treated 4x4 posts. The bonus to this is that it will be an easier job and cheaper to build them non-permanent. It is best to avoid those things and make the structures non-permanent. That means that the city where you live could force you to tear down what you have built. Many places will have by-laws that restrict the use of permanent structures like ramps on your property. There may even be legal reason not to build a permanent structure.
You may want to move one day and take the ramp with you. Outdoor ramps can get wet and rot with improper contact with the ground. You do not need to fasten the ramps to the ground or floor though. For indoor or outdoor you need to have a good connection with the ground for a solid ramp. This can get pretty involved so I think it deserves a whole page on its own.įoundations Foundations for skateboard ramps are important and often overlooked. I also give you a simple way to draw and cut a transition. Check here for details on what different types of tranny. Design - Getting the transition rightĬhoosing a transition The transition is the steepness and curve of the ramp. Especially when you go to buy the material. It can speed things up if you have all the right pieces cut and ready before you start to assemble. Counting the number pieces and length of cuts. You can pop the staples out with a hammer and use the sheet again without big screw holes.Ĭut lists An accurate list of materials is important to have. It is quick and fun to snap down a sheet. Without the worry of finding a cross brace for the screw to catch. It is quicker and cleaner than screwing it down. Pneumatic staplers can be rented for the few hours. Something long enough to get good grip and wide enough that they don't pinch the skating surface. If you are using masonite a pneumatic stapler will give you the best finish. The heads can pop off and you will have to replace the screw. They are weak and will wear just from having a skateboard roll over them. It is best to use ones that are threaded all the way up the neck for the sheathing. If you want to get picky you can use 3" deck screws for the structure and 1" ones for the sheathing. So you can take them out and put them back in for repairs. They have a Robinson (square) bit that does not strip. The materials vary depending on what is being done.įasteners I use 1 1/2" deck screw because they are strong and durable. The sky is the limit for other tools too. If you have a little more money then get a miter saw and a chalk line. If you are good with tools you can get by with that. Tools A most basic set of tools to build:
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